Oakdale use only the finest aggregates. Natural shade variations may occur, however this is generally considered to enhance the visual effect and colours invariably weather together in time. This is not a fault in manufacture. When laying take from alternate packs, and remember that paving bought at different times may be a slightly different shade. Please inspect your Oakdale products prior to laying and inform your retailer immediately in the unlikely event any defects are apparent. Oakdale cannot accept responsibility for consequential losses or the cost of uplifting and relaying any products which if inspected prior to commencement may have been evident.
Swaledale 600 Series Patio Pack 6.3m2
Layout Comprises
10 No. 600x600mm | 10 No. 600x300mm | 10 No. 300x300mm
Rotundas
Swaledale 450 Series Patio Pack 6.075m2
Layout Comprises
10 No. 600x450mm | 10 No. 450x450mm | 10 No. 450x300mm
Rotundas Squaring Off Kit
Swaledale 600 & 450 Series Patio Packs Combined 12.37m2
Layout Comprises
10 No. 600x600mm | 10 No. 600x450mm | 10 No. 600x300mm | 10 No. 450x450mm | 10 No. 450x300mm | 10 No. 300x300mm
Octunda
Install Guides
Choosing a design
Oakdale products come in many different shades, sizes, designs and variations - so consider where the paving is to be laid and whether the shade best suits the surroundings and your expectations. You may opt for a formal layout with brighter colours and definite lines to invigorate your property or you may decide on a more flowing less rigid presentation that moves into nooks and crannies with subtle shades reflecting a more moodful setting.
The site
The site must be cleared and prepared prior to the commencement of work. Any short cuts at this stage will return to haunt you later so ensure that:
• all rubbish is removed.
• all natural or bio-degradable matter (grass, roots, weeds etc.) is taken out completely.
• plan your storage to allow free access to your materials and work area.
Materials
Hard Core - this is a bulk material used to give a firm working base to build on. It can be made up of rubble or can be bought from a Builders Merchant as Ballast or Crusher Run. If replacing existing, break up paving and compact with Hard Core.
Laying Base or Course - a finer material generally Sharp Sand or Washed Concreting Sand on which paving is laid. It is normal for this to have a high moisture content.
Builders Sand or Soft Sand - this is used as an ingredient in making mortar. Mixed in proportion with cement and water it is the binding agent for your project.
Cement - buy a reputable brand that conforms to British Standards.
Silver or Kiln Dried Sand - used in the 'jointing' stage. A very fine material used to fill in between blocks and 'butt jointed' paving. To ensure that it performs correctly - keep it dry.
Machinery and Tool Hire - it is important that bases are well compacted to prevent movement or sinking. The easiest way of achieving this is with a Plate Compactor. These are generally available from local hire outlets.
Paving, and Walling Blocks - if using more than one pack of paving or walling blocks it is advisable to take them from alternative packs. This will enhance the effect from shade variation.
Laying a patio
For years to come, the durability, functionality and general appearance of your patio will depend on how you address the following stages:
Stage 1 - mark out the area of your patio and dig down approximately 200mm. If this involves removing any lawn or top soil, consider re-using them in other areas of the garden.
Stage 2 - lay and level your sub base (Hard-core or Crusher Run) to a thickness of about 100mm. The depth of sub base depends on the type of usage you are anticipating.
Stage 3 - a level course of laying base is required to a depth of approximately 50 - 60mm. It is quite permissible to compact this and then lightly lift the surface with a rake to facilitate laying.
Stage 4 - there are many acceptable routines for laying the paving. The preferred method is to lay paving onto a full bed of mortar (recommended for all natural stone).
Whichever method you use remember to keep checking the level and alternating packs.
Please note Swaledale, Coverdale and Easby are designed with a subtle shade variations to enhance and make the over-all effect more authentic.
This will ensure that the naturally occurring shade variation found in Mossdale natural stone is replicated in our manufactured products.
Stage 5 - once completed leave the patio overnight or longer if possible remembering that if you have used cement mixture on the back of the slabs this will take time to fully harden. Depending on the type of paving used, brush in kiln dried sand or point with mortar into the small spaces between the slabs. This will give it that professional, finished appearance, alternatively you could use GeoFix pointing compound. GeoFix is a vacuum-packed sand compound for pointing paving. It is simply brushed into place, taking only a matter of minutes to apply.
Geofix has been chemically treated and on contact with the air begins to harden. Within a few hours it cures to form permanent joints with no risk of mortar spillage staining the paving. Finally, Oakdale recommend all products, both manufactured and natural, are sealed.
Considerations
• When calculating the depth to dig out allow for the thickness of the paving if you want the patio to be ground level.
• If the patio is to be above ground level you must consider how to restrain the paving with edging.
• Ensure that you allow a gentle slope for water to freely drain away from buildings.
• Do not brush dry cement powder across the faces of flagstones, microscopic particles will remain and become very apparent after the first rain to fall on them.
• Do not use de-icing salts on decorative paving in extreme weather conditions as it may cause surface damage.
• Use recognised techniques for manual handling.
• When laying a Driveway particular attention must be given to product thickness and sub-base, we recommend you refer to BS Standards or Interpave, always seek advice and guidance from a professional
Building walls
As with any other type of building work preparation is the key. Start by digging out the foundations. How deep these are depends on the size of the intended structure. You may need to fill the bottom of the trench with hard-core or sub base dependant on the planned height of the wall. Pour rough mix concrete into the trench, roughly level it and then leave it to harden. This will now form the base on which your wall will be built.
Lay blocks on the prepared base and check with a spirit level. Use a string tautly fixed on two points at either end of the trench to maintain direction. Repeat the process until the desired height is achieved. For walls above two courses you may need to seek professional help. Remember to leave drainage gaps in the wall if soil is retained by it above ground level. When laying the blocks on top of each other stagger the ends to give greater strength and visual appeal.